2018 - Haut-Brion, Pessac-Leognan

The 2018 Haut-Brion is deep garnet-purple in color. It offers up notes of stewed plums, baked blackberries, and crème de cassis, plus hints of Chinese five spice, tobacco, and dusty soil, with a waft of dried herbs. Full-bodied, the palate is a beautiful monster, framed with firm, grainy tannins and plenty of freshness, finishing long and exotic.

Fourth generation of the Dillon family at Haut-Brion today, overseeing the extremely challening act of keeping a First Growth at the top of its game. This is laying down the gauntlet - powerfully built, complex and succulent layers of tight black fruits and grilled oak, overlaid with charcoal, cloves, tobacco, slate, sage and smoked earth, nuanced and unwilling to show its hand too soon. Needs a good five to eight years more, and will age for decades. Harvested 6 September to 2 October, yields 44hl/ha. 3.8pH. IPT72

The 2018 Haut-Brion was double decanted, assessed after two hours and then over 24 hours, initially blind against La Mission Haut-Brion. There is more red fruit on the nose compared to the La Mission Haut-Brion, wild strawberries commingling with raspberry, light tobacco scents and shavings of black truffle. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully balanced with superb salinity. Maybe this is more elegant and seductive than the La Mission thanks to the killer line of acidity, though it has slightly less backbone and grip by comparison. Oddly, this First Growth is the most approachable of the pair. It has wonderful cohesion and harmony toward the precise, captivating finish. Superb. My hunch is that this will have wider appeal in its youth, then the La Mission might put its nose in front after 15–20 years.